We offer most common vehicle repairs, and some that aren’t so common. Here is a list of most of them.

Complete brake repair and maintenance, including in house rotor and drum resurfacing, pressure bleeding and flushing, and antilock brake system (A.B.S.) diagnostics.

Repair of all steering and suspension components, including rack and pinion replacement, steering pump replacement, Shocks, struts, tie rod ends, ball joints, springs and more.

Drive train components including drive shafts and universal joints, drive axles, wheel bearings, differentials,
Transmissions, and trans-axles.

Clutches, with flywheel machining, and complete hydraulic operating system repair.

Engine, including timing belts, water pumps, re-sealing (oil leaks), valve grind and valve adjust, up through major overhaul or replacement.

Fuel system, that includes injection diagnostics, in tank fuel pump replacement, filters, Carburetor overhauls, mechanical fuel pumps, fuel hoses.

Cooling system repair, which is radiators and heater cores, thermostats, hoses, water pumps, water pump belt and fans, electric and mechanical.

Body mechanical, including door latches, door locks, hood and trunk latches and hinges, hood and trunk releases, window mechanisms, seats and their related parts, seat belts.

Some of our procedures

In servicing an automatic transmission, We believe that total fluid change is the best end result. Most automatics, not counting Hondas, can hold a large amount of fluid. This is usually between six and ten quarts total capacity. A third of this at most is in the transmission pan. The rest is in the torque converter, the cooling system and passages in the transmission itself. Some shops drop the pan, change the filter and gasket, refill and call it done. This requires about three quarts of fluid. Hardly a fluid change. Other shops use a dialysis type machine that filters and/or exchanges the fluid and they may or may not change the filter. We have a custom made tool which attaches to the line of the transmission where fluid is pumped to the radiator for cooling. We can loop the fluid or let it pump into the waste oil barrel. We replace the filter and gasket if applicable, then fill and flush until only new fluid comes out. This procedure we feel, truly exchanges all of the fluid, and leaves only clean new fluid in the trans. It also flushes the radiator cooler and the lines. We may use fifteen to twenty quarts, depending on how filthy the fluid was, that includes leaving six to ten quarts in the transmission. It may not be as “cheap” as some places do it, but we firmly believe that the only thing keeping an automatic transmission from lasting a very long time is dirty, cooked, chemically broken down fluid, making the cost of this procedure money well spent.

Flushing brake systems is another area that is often overlooked. Brake fluid as we know it is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture (water) from the air and absorbs it, thus causing corrosion of metal parts in the brake hydraulic system. Regular flushing can prevent premature failure and often make these components last a very long time. We use a commercially made brake system flushing machine that attaches to the brake master cylinder, and pressure flushes the system through the bleeders with new brake fluid. It is very affective, and not very expensive. We charge approximately forty-five minutes to an hour of shop time for this procedure, plus about a quart of brake fluid.

Cooling systems are another system that need complete fluid change. We drain radiators and blocks (when the block can be drained). We open the heater core, remove the lower radiator hose and flush everything thoroughly with distilled water. When they all flush clean, any amount of distilled water left is part of the new coolant fill. We have a vacuum fill machine that basically removes all of the air from the system. This also runs a very convenient leak test, if it won’t hold vacuum the system has a leak. Then we install the prescribed amount of antifreeze, along with the remainder of the distilled water. The pressure cap is tested and replaced if needed, and the system run to temperature while the thermostat operation is monitored by infrared heat tester. The system is heated to operating temperature and cooled down twice. This ensures complete purging of any trapped air, and tests the electric cooling fan system if applicable.